Anticipating Weather Extremes
Vegetable gardens are unnatural places. Consequently, nature confronts gardeners with many challenges. To cope, gardeners need to plan for conditions that will not meet their plant’s ideal growing requirements. Soil, moisture and temperature conditions may vary greatly during the growing season and from year to year. The gardener’s plans should try to anticipate these risks.
Site and plant selection can minimize a few of the more common hazards. While soil type is usually fixed, soil structure can be enhanced by introducing organic matter – humus or compost. Windy sites can promote plant water loss through transpiration. Less windy sites can help plants conserve water and help retain soil warmth. So, the garden’s microclimate matters.
Plants vary in their temperature tolerance. Cold-season edible plants include the brassica’s - broccoli, cabbage, kale, onions, Swiss chard and spinach. Popular warm weather crops include bell peppers, cucumbers, eggplant, green beans, summer squash, sweet corn, tomatoes and watermelon. So, choosing plants that suit your taste as well as the likely seasonal weather variations can help produce a successful garden.
Two challenges that confront many vegetable gardeners are drought and periods of excessive heat. Enjoying a bountiful harvest requires forethought and a keen interest in the weather. This spring many Connecticut locations did not accumulate the growing degree days – the heat, generated in previous years (Refer to Cornell University’s Climate Smart Farming web site to calculate the growing degree days in your area.) Cold delays edible plant seed gemination. Similarly, the hot, dry conditions since mid-July in Connecticut created stressful conditions for edible plants.
When temperatures soar into the 90’s for days and rain is scarce, plants benefit from timer-controlled drip irrigation systems and soils rich in organic matter. Mulching also matters. Drip irrigation systems are best because they deliver water directly to the soil. Roots take-up nutrients from soil water. So, it’s necessary to water the soil not the plant. Further, wetting the plant can foster pathogen growth. So, overhead watering is not ideal.
It’s best to water plants long and deep early in the day. Drip hoses should be deployed throughout the garden moistening the soil around and between the plants. Timers are a beneficial feature, either manual or programmable. Manual watering, while best is not always practical. A timer-controlled drip system will help keep the soil more consistently and evenly moist as natural conditions change.
Adding organic matter to garden soil can also help retain moisture and cool plant roots. A garden’s ‘field capacity’ – the maximum amount of water held in a soil is significantly increased by adding organic matter. If field capacity is low, less water is available to plants, the soil can dry out and the plants will wilt. Adding organic matter improves soil structure, water-holding capacity and fertility.
Mulch also helps plants cope with weather extremes. It conserves soil moisture, helps regulate soil temperature, adds organic matter and retards weed growth. There are many types of mulch materials. Straw, leaves and compost are good choices for a vegetable garden. Grass clippings are okay too, but be wary of their source. Many chemicals are added to turf.
Gardeners cannot control nature but the effects of weather extremes can be anticipated and often mitigated yielding a bountiful harvest. For more on this and other important gardening topics consult Daryl Beyer’s excellent text, the new gardener’s handbook from Timber Press, Inc.
Using the Internet to Match Plant to Place
Garden success requires matching plant to place. ‘Right plant, right place’ is the thoughtful gardener’s mantra. A successful garden will use the site’s natural four- season sun, soil and moisture to fulfill its requirements. Extensive environmental engineering is likely to produce more frustration than satisfaction.
The internet can help identify plant cultural preferences, pests and pathogens. Searching reliable online plant databases can complement your library of Peterson or Audubon Society field guides.
But not all online sites are reliable. The most reliable are in the ‘edu’ and ‘gov’ domains. The ‘org’ domain is usually used by non-profits. So, they may have an agenda that goes beyond objective education. The ‘com’ domain suggests a for profit perspective, so be wary.
Additionally, the University of California may offer highly reliable information, but it may not be relevant to a Connecticut garden, given the climatic differences.
A list of useful sites for Connecticut gardeners follows:
Plant Identification and Invasive Plants
http://hort.uconn.edu
https://www.ct-botanical-society.org
http://nenativeplants.uconn.edu
http://bringingnaturehome.net
https://cipwg.uconn.edu
https://www.ctwoodlands.org
http://www.ladybug.uconn.edu
http://ipm.uconn.edu/root
https://portal.ct.gov/caes
http://turfweeds.cals.cornell.edu
Plant Diseases & Pests
https://portal.ct.gov/CAES/Plant-Pest-Handbook
portal.ct.gov/CAES/PDIO/Alerts/Whats-New
https://ag.umass.edu/vegetable
https://ag.umass.edu/landscape/landscape-message
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu
http://idl.entomology.cornell.edu/factsheets
Soil Testing
http://www.soiltest.uconn.edu
Pollinators
https://portal.ct.gov/CAES/Publications/Publications/Pollinator-Information
Gardening Classes
https://uconnmastergardeners
Soil Test
The most useful gardening tool is not in your shed. It’s a soil test. Gardening success requires knowing a few things about how the living ecosystem under our feet works. A soil test is the place to start.
Garden soil needs to be tested prior to planting and every three to five years thereafter. Initial testing to determine your garden’s pH (a measure of soil acidity/alkalinity) is important because plants have a preferred pH range. Their preference is determined by the nutrients they need. Plants absorb nutrients through their roots. The chemical reactions that enable this process (cation exchanges) are governed by the relative acidity/alkalinity of the soil surrounding the plant’s roots. Acid soil has a pH value below 7.0, alkaline above 7.0. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Plants can absorb almost none of the nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium they must have at a pH value of 4 – 4.5. A soil test, among other things, measures the pH of a soil sample.
Native Connecticut soils have a pH of 4.5 – 5.3. Most garden plants prefer 6.0 – 6.8. So, soil test reports may advise the addition of alkaline materials like limestone. Over many months, this addition can raise the soil’s pH. Other materials such as sulfur can be used to lower pH values. A few other materials can also accomplish the desired results. Some plants actually prefer more acidic soils such as members of the Ericaceae family. This family includes blueberries, rhododendrons, mountain laurel and azaleas. They prefer acidic soils – a pH range of roughly 4.5 – 6.0. because it can provide more access to iron and other micronutrients. But these plants are exceptions.
Periodic testing is needed because plants consume soil nutrients. Harvesting, weeding and natural leaching reduces the nutrients in the soil. So, in addition to pH adjustment fertilization is required to replenish lost nutrients. Macro nutrients, nitrogen (N) for leaves, phosphorous (P) for blossoms, roots and fruits and potassium (K) for overall health are essential. They are needed in relatively large quantities. Important micro nutrients, micro because they are needed in very small amounts, include boron, copper, iron, manganese, zinc, sulfur and aluminum. Their role and the possible role of other substances in plant growth and development is at the frontier of plant science.
The best way to know your soil and how it is likely to work is by testing. A professional lab such as the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory (www.soiltest.uconn.edu) will accurately determine the pH of a submitted sample, identify important macro and micro imbalances and report elevated levels of some heavy metals including lead. Knowing lead levels is particularly useful for Connecticut gardeners working around old wooden structures (paint chips), heavily trafficked roads (gasoline) or on old orchards (pesticides).
Soil tests have limitations They don’t identify the presence of pesticides, pests or pathogens nor do they detect drainage problems. So, soil tests are not a comprehensive garden management tool. But soil test reports include crop specific recommendations and useful references.
To act on soil report fertilizer recommendations, it’s important to know how to read the label on the bag. Ignore the attractive picture. Read the label front and back because it will provide the N-P-K numbers, important use, and ingredient information. The big numbers are the percentage of available nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium - the three macro nutrients provided by fertilizers. The numbers, 10- 6 -20, for example mean that the container includes 10% nitrogen, 6% phosphorous and 20% potassium. So, a 100-pound bag of 10-6-20 will contain 10 pounds of nitrogen, 6 of phosphorous and 20 of potassium: 36 pounds of nutrients. The remaining 64 pounds are materials that facilitate application or are part of the chemical compounds carrying the macro nutrients.
Fertilizers can be natural/organic or synthetic. Both have advantages and disadvantages. Natural/organic fertilizers are from plants, animals or rocks. Their big numbers are usually single digits (4-9-3). Synthetic or chemical fertilizers are chemically altered, manufactured or from synthesized materials. Synthetics are lower cost and faster acting than natural/organic fertilizers. Natural/organic fertilizers are slow release and improve the soil. Additionally, there are several fertilizer types, defined by delivery method: water soluble; slow release; liquid; granular; spikes and tablets; and, plant and animal meals. So, it takes some thought to select the right fertilizer.
There are many other substances that can be usefully added to a garden beyond bagged fertilizer. For example, compost is not a fertilizer. But it enhances a gardens fertility by adding nutrients and organic matter. The choice depends on the gardener’s assessment of the situation and the costs and benefits. Beyond the science there is an art to gardening. Would blood meal around the carrots add needed nitrogen and repel the rabbit that tunneled under the fence? It may be a more productive solution that a Havahart trap!
Invasive Earthworms
Connecticut gardeners are facing a growing threat from invasive earthworms – the ‘Jumping Worm’ (Amynthas spp. Metaphire spp.) These little creatures (1.5” – 8”) are big trouble. They can harm plant growing sites. But there are some easy steps we can take to reduce this threat.
The ‘Jumping worms’ (JW’s), like most earthworms, are ecological engineers – they transform the soil. JW’s are earthworms on steroids. Unlike the European earthworms we know (Lumbricus spp.), JW’s damage the soil by consuming copious amounts of organic material and creating large ‘microaggregates’ in their wake.
These aggregates are an ominous sign that JW’s are present. The aggregates are easily identified year-round. They look like spent coffee grounds or hamburger on the soil’s surface. JW’s also move distinctively in a highly agitated, slithering snake like pattern. European earthworms move differently. They are not as ‘jumpy’ and pull themselves forward by expanding and contracting their segmented bodies. JW’s have a light milky colored clitellum (band) encircling their entire bodies. The clitellum on European worms partially encircles the body, is darker and slightly raised, among other differences. The best time to see the JW’s is in summer or early fall.
JW’s are capable of altering large areas because they seemingly reproduce without limit.
Since they are invasive, (alien and harmful), they lack natural controls. Currently, no safe and effective chemical or biological control exists.
JW’s tend to congregate in large numbers causing soil erosion and nutrient leaching. This imperils plants by causing root desiccation and depriving plants of needed nutrients. Plant problems in turn threaten collapse of the niche. The intricate niche balance achieved over time is upset by the JW’s until new predators with a taste for these aggressive creatures evolves.
So, what can we do now to manage this emerging gardening threat? First, learn to identify it. Scientists studying the JW have published several useful ‘Fact Sheets’ and informative articles. They include: Julia Rosen’s January 23, 2020 article Jumping Worms Are Taking Over North American Forests, in The Atlantic and Annise Dobson’s informative May 1, 2020 article in the Connecticut Gardener, Jumping Worm Update. Cornell Cooperative Extension, (ulster.cce.cornell.edu), the University of Wisconsin Arboretum (arboretum.wisc.edu/jumping worm), and the University of Vermont, (blog.uvm.edu/jgorres/amynthas) among others, have published on line ‘Fact Sheets’ that include clear JW photos. If you see JW’s report the sighting to your local Connecticut Agriculture Experiment Station.
Most importantly, avoid introducing JW’s to your garden. JW eggs, the size of peppercorns and adult JW’s can accompany soil, mulch and compost. So, be careful about your sources. Imported compost needs to be heated over 104 F degrees for three days. Buy bare root stock. Check the plants you buy or transport – knock-off soil in a ‘kiddie pool’ or bucket to detect any hitch hikers and discard the soil. Be wary when sharing or moving plants and equipment. Tough to spot eggs or ‘cocoons’ may be present. While the worms die off in winter, the eggs do not. Bait fishermen should not use them and if they do any unused bait should be securely bagged and tossed in the trash and not in the woods. Finally, tell others about this harmful creature. We need to encourage research for the development of a biological control.
JW’s are unlikely to be in your garden unless they are inadvertently imported. As with many ‘invasives’ we are the vectors so the solution starts with us.
University of Connecticut Gardening Resources
The University of Connecticut offers a rich array of helpful gardening resources. The gateway to this advice and assistance is UConn’s Home and Garden Information Center. These resources can be easily accessed three ways: (1) online and via email www.ladybug.uconn.edu; (2) toll free (877) 486-6271; and, (3) when COVID-19 conditions permit by visiting the Center located on the UConn Campus in Storrs or by a visit to one of the eight UConn extension offices. It’s easy to get an informed opinion by submitting a photo or problem plant specimen or a pest that has aroused your curiosity. While our gardens and our gardening goals are unique, we are not alone.
In person Center and Extension office services are restricted at this time by observance of physical distancing requirements. Until the conditions are right for the resumption of full services, questions, photos or videos can continue to be submitted via email or Instagram and by mail as described on the Lab’s site, plant.lab.uconn.edu.
Computers are indispensable tools for answering questions. But they don’t ask them. While focusing on your garden with a cup of coffee in the early morning, or on a late afternoon stroll with a chardonnay, something may catch your eye. Something that is unusual or unexpected. UConn’s Home and Garden Center and the Extension offices are the places to go for answers.
Their problem solving starts with identification. What plant or pest or pathogen is it? If a plant, how is it supposed to look? What is causing the aberration – a pest, pathogen (disease) or abiotic (non-living) disorder or condition at the site? What is the best, least harmful way to resolve the issue?
The Center offers self-help assistance that includes many clear, concise fact sheets addressing common concerns. For more novel questions, the Center’s experts invite clear close-up and full specimen photos or specimens. Clear photos and undamaged specimens enable the best answers from diagnosticians. Ample submission guidelines are available on the Center’s site.
We garden for many, mostly personal reasons. However, for most our satisfaction is greatest when we can interact successfully with our natural environment. This involves knowing more about what is happening to our shoots and roots and why. Knowing more about our gardens will increase our gardening enjoyment.
Whether you are a beginner or have a ‘green thumb’ a visit to UConn’s Home and Garden Center is worthwhile. The Center’s staff of experts working with the experts at the Extension Centers keep up with horticultural science, welcome our questions and are well positioned to give us the answers we need.
The University of Connecticut offers a rich array of helpful gardening resources. The gateway to this advice and assistance is UConn’s Home and Garden Information Center. These resources can be easily accessed three ways: (1) online and via email www.ladybug.uconn.edu; (2) toll free (877) 486-6271; and, (3) when COVID-19 conditions permit by visiting the Center located on the UConn Campus in Storrs or by a visit to one of the eight UConn extension offices. It’s easy to get an informed opinion by submitting a photo or problem plant specimen or a pest that has aroused your curiosity. While our gardens and our gardening goals are unique, we are not alone.
In person Center and Extension office services are restricted at this time by observance of physical distancing requirements. Until the conditions are right for the resumption of full services, questions, photos or videos can continue to be submitted via email or Instagram and by mail as described on the Lab’s site, plant.lab.uconn.edu.
Computers are indispensable tools for answering questions. But they don’t ask them. While focusing on your garden with a cup of coffee in the early morning, or on a late afternoon stroll with a chardonnay, something may catch your eye. Something that is unusual or unexpected. UConn’s Home and Garden Center and the Extension offices are the places to go for answers.
Their problem solving starts with identification. What plant or pest or pathogen is it? If a plant, how is it supposed to look? What is causing the aberration – a pest, pathogen (disease) or abiotic (non-living) disorder or condition at the site? What is the best, least harmful way to resolve the issue?
The Center offers self-help assistance that includes many clear, concise fact sheets addressing common concerns. For more novel questions, the Center’s experts invite clear close-up and full specimen photos or specimens. Clear photos and undamaged specimens enable the best answers from diagnosticians. Ample submission guidelines are available on the Center’s site.
We garden for many, mostly personal reasons. However, for most our satisfaction is greatest when we can interact successfully with our natural environment. This involves knowing more about what is happening to our shoots and roots and why. Knowing more about our gardens will increase our gardening enjoyment.
Whether you are a beginner or have a ‘green thumb’ a visit to UConn’s Home and Garden Center is worthwhile. The Center’s staff of experts working with the experts at the Extension Centers keep up with horticultural science, welcome our questions and are well positioned to give us the answers we need.